almost free, portable, indoor, home-made evaporative (swamp) cooler

It\'s easy to provide a portable indoor evaporation cooler for your home--
Just go to Home Depot and spend $1,000.
Hell, they even ship today!
What don\'t you like?
Before I continue. -
Water and electricity can\'t be mixed! ! !
When building a cooler or using a cooler, please unplug the device first whenever you may be exposed to electrical components! ! !
Would you rather be hot or dead? ? ?
But, FYI, depending on what you already have at hand, you can make a portable indoor evaporation cooler for your own home for little or no cost.
Just your time. -
Design first, then construction.
I have most of the parts and tools I need so it cost me about $15.
OK, if you add that at some point in the past I have paid for many other \"left\"over\", on-
Hands, my old parts, it cost me about $40.
I don\'t include the cost of my tools, electricity, time, etc.
So, not including these last three items, you can do it at $0-$100.
If you already have everything, it will be $0 (not too likely)
, $50, $100 if you have most things on hand or buy them, if you don\'t have any parts and buy all the new parts.
At the bottom of each page, I will provide an amount of $3 (
Give you an estimate of the cost of running), such as ($0, $0, $0).
The first number, in bold, is what I need to spend on the project.
If you have something I don\'t have, then you\'re one step ahead.
The second number in italics is the cost I estimate. -
Including the original cost of the parts I already have on hand.
This estimate is just a \"approximate\" number. -
How do you estimate the cost of a teaspoon of PVC glue bought 15 years ago or three cups of paint on a gallon can, possibly for sale?
Also, you can use this as an estimated cost if you buy (or use)
Old, used parts.
The third number is my estimate and you will spend a lot of money if you buy all the new items.
Of course, this will also vary depending on what you buy, when, how, etc.
If you buy a quart of paint and only use half of it, it\'s hard to price it right!
First, let\'s start with the theory of the whole thing ---
It\'s really simple.
Just look at the picture above.
All you need to do is create a way to attract dry hot air through a damp, permeable surface-
You end up creating cooler air.
Nothing complicated!
In fact, in the 1930s S, the largest immigration in American history was caused by a dust bowl.
Many Okie had to give up their bets and move to California to find a job.
If they are lucky, they will work hard in the hot sun of San Fernando to take care of the crops.
When the long hot day is over, they hang the water up
Wet blankets on the line of clothes they open-air campsites.
In the evening, the dry Santa Ana wind will cool them down! (Hot Tip --
Read Steinbeck\'s Grapes of Wrath or watch a movie with Henry Fonda).
Take a look at this map of America and see if the swamp cooler will work in your area.
But history is enough.
The chart above shows only two elements in the cooler I designed.
It\'s better to think of it as four simple, interconnected \"systems \".
The first one is on the left--
\"Watering\" system.
This includes water dripping down slowly (
Thanks for our freefor-
Friends of gravity)
Air can flow through some kind of porous material or film. Nothing more.
The second one is on the right. -
\"Ventilation\" system.
This includes the means of pulling (
Basically sucking.
The air passes through the damp porous film just mentioned.
In this chart, it is a fan (
Please don\'t applause).
The third one is not shown.
It is a system of power.
This includes methods for powering water systems and ventilation systems.
This can be achieved by standard 110 v ac household current, solar or any other means (
For example, a husband or boyfriend on a treadmill).
The fourth one is not shown either.
We call it the \"shopping cart\" system.
This is just an easy way to move the other three \"systems\" together while moving safely and reliably indoors ---
Even in the dead of night!
I think my work is \"evaporation cooler for Beverly Hills\", but most people may refer to it as \"Swamp cooler for Beverly Hills \". \" Whatever --
I want you to be a judge.
First of all, let\'s take a look at the part you need ---
Broken down by each system.
Keep in mind that the part you need will depend on what you already have at hand, what you can get, and how you want to design your system.
Your cooler doesn\'t look like mine as you will be using different parts to meet your special needs, available parts and situations.
From above, the graphic shows my settings.
It shows a fan sitting on a board and breathing in the air through a damp evaporation pad.
These three pictures show almost everything you need to complete this project.
That\'s not much, as you know, most of these things are rubbish!
You build a fan yourself basically starts with a fan, because it\'s easier to adjust everything else based on the size of the fan, rather than trying to find a fan to install all the other components.
There are many fans outside.
Multiple sizes and shapes-and colors.
You can design a system around any of them, but it\'s easiest to design a system based on a square or rectangular fan ---
There are many sizes to choose from.
But check the corner. -
Some are square and some are round.
The better the corner, the better the square.
These can cost very little to buy new ones, but they are usually available at thrift stores for only a few dollars.
A few years ago, I bought my 22 \"x 22\" square fan at a thrift store for about $3.
Most fans have an adjustable speed control, just like mine, but this may not be important for your project, as you will see.
Most fans have a metal case on the edge, with plastic strips covering the fan blades on the front and back.
AC wires usually come out of the back (intake)
Bottom of the fan.
These fans usually have a plastic handle on the top of the case and holes on the metal.
You can keep it \"as is\" but it\'s better to remove the handle (
No need for it)
Cover the holes with packing tape to prevent air from bypassing the watering system.
You have to throw four little nuts and bolts (and washers)
Press and hold the fan, but only these are the ventilation \"system.
I already have a fan and something else, so the cost at this point is: $0, $3, $20. From the side, this graphic shows my settings.
It shows a fan at the top of the bathtub (
Water)
Breathe in air through an evaporation pad (
When it is soaked in water).
Unlike the ventilation system, the watering system consists of multiple parts: evaporation pad--
These are soaked with water through droppers or tubes (see below).
There are many business types to choose from and your choice will depend on your situation.
I chose Aspen snow.
Cool pads because they are easy to get and well received, and most importantly, you can cut them into any size you need (See the first photo).
They are about 1 \"thick and available in various sizes.
I chose the 20 \"x 22\" that best matched my system and asked for the minimum amount of cutting.
These can be heavy-
Scissors on duty.
They are actually small pieces made of very thin, plastic, hard Aspen Woodto-
See the grid on both sides.
I don\'t know how long these or other pads will last before they need to be replaced due to rot, mold, fungus, smell, old age, etc.
We have to wait and see, but it\'s really easy to replace your systems if you design them carefully from the start.
Cushion bracket--
You need something to put the mat above on the back of the fan so that a lot of air can pass through the fan and the mat.
I thought for a moment.
Spring is coming, I am planting seeds in my greenhouse.
I put the seeds in the flowerpot and The Flowerpot in The Flowerpot (
Apartment or grates).
These tough plastic grilles are stand for flowerpots and are perfect for this job-
If your fan size is right.
They have a variety of sizes and styles as well as plastic (
See photos 2 and 3).
What is needed is a fan or two that fits you, is a durable but flexible plastic and has a wide enough edge to fit the screw holes (
Hold it behind the fan).
Some open at the bottom and some open at the bottom and side.
Nurseries, home improvement stores, supermarkets, garden shops, hardware stores, grocery stores, and even some pharmacies are used.
What will they do with them at the end of the season?
Probably most of them were thrown out.
They cannot recycle them because they do not have the type of plastic indicated on them and are covered with dirt.
Some may be sent back to the dealer, but what will they do? Hint --
Three words back.
In short, if you go to a local \"shop\" they will give you the quantity you want ---for FREE!
Measure it before you go, or take some samples home, or just go (
Tape measure)
See what they have.
I already have a bunch, so I chose two fans that fit perfectly on the back (see photo 4).
They open at the bottom and close at the side, but there are two openings at the top and bottom ---
This makes it easier to drop water through them (see below).
Bathtub with water--
You have a lot of choices here. -
Laundry basket, storage box, food cooler, trash can, etc.
The first is the size.
From small to large, from high to fat, from wide to narrow, you can get all this.
Get a fan that is wider than your fan so that when it drops through the mat, it can catch the water that the residence has (
See above).
Like the kitchen trash can, don\'t get a high trash can, because these can get knocked down more easily.
Many people have holes on the bottom or side, sometimes small or drain plugs. Avoid these.
Others, such as laundry baskets, have slats on the side. Stay away.
Especially in hard plastic, look for signs of cracks or stress.
Don\'t try to do any repairs.
Check the plastic type at the bottom.
5 PP is the best and strongest, with the longest duration.
Just make sure it is very strong, thick and strong.
Like fans, you can buy these new ones or spend a few dollars in thrift stores.
Make sure it has a wide enough edge on the top, which will allow you to drill a few holes to connect the cylinder head (see last photo).
My tub will be 18 gallons but I try to keep it half to 2/3 gallons-
That\'s about 100 pounds water!
Lid of bathtub--
You need something to cover most of the top of the bathtub and keep the fan assembly (see photo 8). I had a left-
More than 3/8 of plywood needs to be trimmed a little.
About two days.
Third on top of the bathtub.
The part that it does not cover is where the water drops from the cooler pad to return to the bathtub (
See above).
You will want to cut it into size (
Or a little overdone. sized)
If it is wood, apply it with epoxy resin and oil
Because it will be exposed to high humidity and will most likely get wet, it is based on or marine paint or polyurethane.
Latex paint is water-
It will only cause trouble.
At the top of this lid you need to add a small door (
See the picture above)
To enter the pump, clean the bathtub, etc. See photo 7.
All I did on me was cut a rectangle from the plywood with a jigsaw puzzle and put it back in place with a piano hinge and a knob (see photo 6)--
I have them all.
You can also check the water level with this door.
First of all, you need to check the water level frequently to see how much water is used in your equipmentup.
My use is about 4-
6 gallons per day-
If it\'s been a whole day--
So I add a few gallons every four. 6 hours of use.
If the water level is too low, the pump will kill and burn out soon ---
So don\'t forget the check!
You can add water with the door, or you can drill a separate hole on the side (
See the picture above)
Add a funnel (
Or a used, empty, top of plastic bottle)to add water.
Water cycle components--
It\'s basically three parts. -
Water pumps, pipes and droppers.
The pump is the main component of the pump.
There are a lot of options here and it\'s easy to confuse.
First, there is a submersible pump, called a submersible pump.
There are also pumps that are not underwater.
You can also use it, but life will be easier if you use a diving type.
All pumps have different \"advantages \"---
Basically, how much water can they pump, how fast and how high.
The \"how fast\" section is usually rated by gallon/hour or similar criteria.
There is very little demand here, so there is no need to deal with this at all.
The second is how high it will smoke.
This is often referred to as \"height\", \"Rise\", \"lift\", \"head\", etc.
However, the lift listed depends on the width of the pipe or pipe it pushes the water through.
The narrower the pipe, the higher it can go.
The manufacturer lists the height according to the output diameter of the pump--
But they often don\'t mention what the output diameter of the pump is.
The pump I came with has an adapter that allows it to be used with a tube/tube of 1/4 or 3/8.
In addition, some pumps are adjustable so that you can control precisely the amount of water it pumps.
The most important thing here is the elevator, but again, the height required is very small.
Measure from the bottom of the bathtub to the top of the fan.
In my case, it\'s about 3\'4 \".
So all I need is a 1 metre pump.
I bought a new, dive, adjustable model on EBAY for $5.
About 1 or so. 5\" x 2\" x 2\".
Your local aquarium (
Petco, Petsmart, etc. )
There will be many choices.
You don\'t want a pump that\'s too powerful because you\'re just wasting power-
And most likely there will be water everywhere!
And you need a tube (or tubing)
Drop water into the top of the evaporation pad.
I chose a 1/2 hard tube because this is what I have on hand.
All you need is a part of the fan width-in my case 22\".
Unfortunately, you can only buy PVC (or ABS)
Pipe with length of 8 feet.
You can even use copper pipes, I think.
But no matter what you use, you need to drill 1/8 holes in a straight line along the entire length, about 1/2 apart.
Make sure you don\'t drill holes where water doesn\'t drip onto the mat.
Close one end of the pipe with a lid and place the adapter (s)
On the other end.
I used two adapters.
One is a 1/2 \"PVC pipe to standard 1/2\" pipe thread and the second is a standard 1/2 \"pipe thread to 3/8\" pipe adapter.
But there are many ways for this cat\'s skin and the adapter is easy to get.
Of course, you need to design a way to connect the pipe to the grille.
I connect the PVC pipe to the top of the pad frame with three plastic cables/wire ties (see last photo)
But you can also use kinks or other clips.
A few months ago, I got a bag of 100 ties for free at the port freight company.
I never knew what I was going to do with them, but they were free so I took them away.
The usual price may be around $0. 50.
The remaining 97 I have to figure out what to do!
The rest at this point is to connect the PVC dropper to the pump.
I have 4 feet 3/8 tubes on my left.
I use aquarium supplies.
You should be able to get the right pump pipe at the aquarium store and use almost nothing, or if you know someone who works in a hospital or clinic and ask them to steal somethingto-be-trashed, left-
Length of surgical tube.
If you need to use one, there are a variety of tube adapters to switch from one size tube to another.
You have to throw about six thin nuts and bolts (and washers)
Fix the lid on the tub and some PVC/ABS glue (
Let\'s say you\'re using a PVC/ABS tube).
I have all the above parts/materials on hand except Aspen snowCool pads (
I only need one, but I got the best deal on three packs)
And the pump--
So the total cost does not rise that much at this point.
Cost at this point: $15, $30, $60.
Because you have different needs, contact different parts, and so on, your may be different from mine.
In any case, if you\'re new to wire, it\'s better to check out the basic home at the local library --wiring book.
It will take you 15 minutes to learn the basics, which will be very worthwhile.
Your design may be simpler than a simple setupup I devised.
Look at this picture I designed (
In this picture, the black line is hot and the red line is neutral).
Fan switch--
This switch is optional.
You can always insert the fan directly into the wall and control the fan speed with the fan controller-
Let\'s say it has one.
This will make your life as simple as possible.
Most fans have an on/off switch so you can plug it in all the time.
I choose to use rheostat (dimmer)
Switch to control the fan.
This gives a bigger adjustment to the airflow and I can plug it in at any time.
My method is to put the on/off switch of the fan and pump on a panel in front of it, but this is just a way (
See the second photo).
Pump switch--
This switch is also optional.
You can always insert the pump directly into the wall and control the volume of the pump with the pump controller-
Let\'s say it has one.
This will make your life as simple as possible.
Most pumps do not have an on/off switch, so need to be inserted every time they are used.
I chose to connect the pump to the switch so I could plug it in all the time.
My method is to put the on/off switch of the fan and pump on a panel in front of it, but this is just a way (
See the second photo).
Electric box and cover for switch--
If you decide to use one or more switches, you need an electric box of the right size and a cover.
The size and shape of the metal or plastic are different.
Wires, caps and screws-
According to your settings-
You might need about 6-
12 inch wire, two or three wire caps and several screws attach the electric box to the tub cover-
There is also a wire cutter/stripping machine.
If you walk the line with a switch box, you need a length of wire with a plug at the end.
This is not a problem as you will cut the cord of the fan and you can use it!
I have all these parts. -saved left-
End of other projects-
But even if you don\'t have any of them and you buy the new one, it won\'t cost much: the cost at this point: $15, $40, $75 bathtub cart-
It\'s just a \"tool\" to keep everything together and move everything at the same time \".
It consists of a little bit of wood and four wheels (see photo 3).
The shopping cart is really optional.
You don\'t need it to operate the cooler, it just makes it easier to move.
When the whole cooler is put together, the weight is easily over 100 pounds, but skip this step if you\'re absolutely sure you don\'t need to move it. Wood --
First, it is a piece of plywood or cardboard at the bottom of the trolley.
It just needs a little bit more than at the bottom of the bucket--
Including edges (
See photos 1 and 2).
Second, the edge can be any suitable width-2\" to 6\" --
The thickness is 3/8 \"to 1 \".
I have about 1/2 pieces of cardboard and 8 feet part of a \"x4 ---
It\'s actually 3/4 \"x3. 5\" --
So I did it. Wheels --
You need four. -
One in each corner of the shopping cart.
Don\'t try a tripod system to save costs.
You can use wheels of any size, but they must be able to support the weight of the whole system-WITH WATER.
Water is the heaviest past so we can talk about 100 pounds--
25 pounds per wheel.
Wheels also need to be rotated--besides rotate.
If they don\'t rotate, all you can do is move the device back and forth.
But the problem with the rotation wheel is that the system has a fan, basically a propeller.
If all four wheels rotate, the whole unit can and will move around the house when the fan is turned on.
It\'s not a good idea unless you happen to want the gallons of water to go down the stairs.
You need at least two locked wheels. -
So they can\'t rotate.
This will prevent everything from moving away from where you put it.
The dimensions of the wheels are not necessarily the same. Mine weren\'t.
I have two big wheels and two small ones.
It\'s not a big deal, but you need to create a gasket for each smaller wheel to make sure it\'s at exactly the same level as the larger wheel ---see photo 1.
Otherwise you will fall into deep water \".
Some wheels are screwed, and some are tied.
Mine were both.
It doesn\'t matter, but make sure the screws don\'t stick to the bottom of the trolley.
This can pierce the tub and you can get stuck-
And water! Extras --
You also need some paint and some nuts and/or screws depending on your wheel.
For any parts you may need, you may want to check out a few places.
First of all, there are always thrift stores-
Even in remote places like Thermopolis, Wyoming and the Tombstone city of Arizona.
Human habitat has also opened stores that mainly sell building materials left over from many of their houses --
Construction projects. On-
Yes, there are websites such as Freecycle.
People in your area provide what they don\'t need-free of charge!
Many cities have organized the \"chemical reuse\" project and anyone in the area can leave --
Paint, pesticide, herbicide, solvent, detergent, acid, alkali, etc.
Anyone can pick them up for free!
Many colleges and universities offer them (safe)
At the end of the school year, provide the public with unwanted chemicals at little or no cost.
It\'s cheaper for them instead of paying them to \"handle \".
I picked up 2 pounds unopened Silver nitrate (reagent grade)
Got free from the University of Colorado a few years ago--
The street is worth about $2,000!
I have all the parts I need for a trolley-saved left-
End of other projects-
But even if you don\'t have any of them and you buy a new one, it won\'t cost much: total estimated cost: $15, $60, $100 to a certain extent, you can work on each system individually but, as you move forward, you have to make sure that the parts from one system will physically mesh correctly on the connection points attached to the other system.
The system you started first really depends on you.
I built the car first, so I will describe it first.
You may finish everything in a day. -
Assume you have all the parts on hand and don\'t need to stop for dinner-
But maybe a better way is to plan your system ahead of time, buy any parts you need in a week, and then spend hours on a continuous weekend assembling each system together.
First of all, I found a suitable fan and a bathtub a little wider than the fan.
I have a lot of options at hand.
Next I measured the bottom of the tub and chose the wood I needed and the wood on hand-
A piece of cardboard of 1/2 and a piece of wood of 1 × 4 (
Actually, it\'s part of Weyerhauser, factory-
\"Pressure saw end\" painting--
As far as I know--
But it was not used a few years ago and found it in the bin).
I\'m glad to press (yuk, yuk)
Service.
I cut the cardboard into the right size.
Be careful here, as most bathtubs are tapered, which needs to be taken into account.
Next, I drilled a few screw holes around, 3/8 from the edge.
I then cut the four pieces on the Weyerhauser board to the correct length and screw them in place.
There were a few screw holes on the edge and gave me a solid tray.
Then I painted the top and side with a nice oilbased primer.
After doing it, all I need to do is add the wheel.
I have a bunch of wheels but not all of them are suitable for the job.
Some are too small, some are too big, some are too fragile.
Some do not rotate, so I can only move the trolley back and forth.
Some do spin won\'t lock in place.
This is important because the fan can move the trolley if the wheel is not locked.
I have two bigger rotating bolts.
On, lock the wheel and two smaller rotary screws-on, non-
Locking wheels that can handle this work.
I created two 1 \"shims for each smaller wheel to make sure all wheels are at exactly the same level (
See Figure 1 below).
Only some careful and thoughtful measurements are needed (
Measure twice, cut once)
Everything is in place.
Shopping cart system is complete!
Next, I decided to solve the problem of ventilation system.
Remember, it\'s basically just a fan, but it needs to be connected to the tub in some way.
Along the way, it will be connected to the shopping cart, watering and power system, but we don\'t need to think too much about it immediately.
I found a 3/8 piece of plywood that only needs to be trimmed a little to hold two pieces
Thirty of the bathtub (
See photos 1 and 2).
The other third one needs to be kept open so that the excess water drops into the tub (see diagram).
Cut the wood a little bit wider than the tub because you will fix the panel to the edge of the tub with nuts and bolts ---see photo 3.
But the first thing.
You can\'t simply tie the panel to the tub, because the fan also needs to be tied to the panel, and if the panel is tied to the tub, you can\'t install the fan under the panel.
So first of all, you need to temporarily connect the panel to the bathtub.
Find six or seven bolts that are thin enough to fit on the edge of the tub, long enough to cover the edge and the depth of the panel.
Then carefully determine where to drill (
Bigger than bolts)
On the edge of the wood and below.
Placing a bolt in each hole as you move forward will help to keep the panel in place.
There is no need to put the nuts on.
After the completion, remove (at least)
Rear screen of the fan and place the fan on top of the panel.
The rear of the fan should be just on the edge of the panel (see last photo).
Then mark four points at the bottom of the fan for drilling (
See photos with fan blades 4).
Look for four nuts (
Bolts and washers)
Long enough to go through the bottom of the fan and panel.
Width is not too important.
Mark on the panel where the fan is located, then remove the fan and place it on a spare piece of wood.
Drilling is slightly wider than bolts.
Put the fan back on the panel and make a mark on the panel through the hole.
Then remove the fan and panel and drill holes in the marked panel.
Do not tie the fan to the panel at this time, and do not tie the panel to the bathtub.
It would be easier to process and connect other systems if they remained separated, but at this point the ventilation system has been done a lot.
Next is the watering system.
There are a lot of possibilities for change here, but you can take what I do and change it as needed.
I found two fans that fit me very well. See photo 1.
No changes are needed, but I need to use two grates.
I expected I would need to drill extra holes on the rear rim of the fan but I didn\'t.
The edge of the grille on the top, bottom and side perfectly matches the screws already in the fan.
All I need to do is remove the rear grille on the fan, align the two and drill the small holes (
Slightly thinner than the screw)
At the edge of the grating-
One for each top, one for each bottom, one for each side.
The grille is hard enough to stay comfortably in place (see photo 2).
If you wish, or if your RIM does not match your fan, you can add additional screw holes.
But I need to do something before I connect the two grating.
When I removed the rear grille, I chose to clean the motor.
It\'s old and dusty (see photo 6)--
A good vacuum cleaner can\'t solve any problems.
Also, I moved the wire from the back of the fan to the front because the switch will be there (
In your case, maybe not).
If you do move the wire to the front, make sure it is away from the fan blades!
I then temporarily put the rear fan panel back on the fan and put the grille on the back of the panel.
I arranged the edges of the grille with the screw holes on the fan.
I chose a bit smaller than the screw hole on the fan (see photo 7)
Drill holes through grilles.
I also need to make some minor changes to grates (top and bottom).
As shown in photos 1 and 3, my grates have two rectangular holes at the top and bottom.
You may or may not.
In either case, it is necessary to have an open strip along the top, a little wider than the dropper, so that the water can drop to the top of the mat (
View photos 8 and 9).
Again, you need to open the bottom and let the water drop into the tub, but at the same time, prevent the mat from falling off the bottom!
So cut the top(s)and bottom(s)
In a way that keeps their structure healthy, let the water cycle where it should be.
Next, I measured the interior of the grating and cut the Aspen pad to fit (see photo 4).
Make sure you don\'t cut them too small.
They are easily compressed and you press them on grates-
They don\'t swell when they end up getting wet.
At first I tried to use two mats in each grate and thought it would increase the water cycle.
I know this is the case, but it reduces the airflow too much.
All you need is an Aspen mat.
I then put the Aspen pad in the grille and screw the rear fan panel and grille back to the fan.
In fact, the grid in the middle does not match exactly.
There is some slight bending and separation (see photo 3).
I solved the problem by simply adding a few twist ties to keep them beautiful and comfortable.
I put the end cap on the PVC pipe and my pipe --to-
Tube adapter on the other.
I put it on top of the grating and marked where I want to drill-and not.
Then I drill about 1/8 holes every half inch and clean up the pieces of them with a small file.
I haven\'t attached it to the grating yet.
Finally, I tied the fan to the tub cover, then tied the cylinder head to the tub and put it all on the trolley.
The only thing left is to power the puppy.
No doubt your line will be different from mineup.
First, I connect the electric box to the cylinder head board.
The position is far enough from the fan to avoid blocking the removal of screws on the front panel or on the panel itself.
The box only needs two screws to stay in place and I drilled a hole in the panel under the box ---
Connect the wire to the pump.
I cut the wire off the fan and ran it from the wall socket to the electric box.
I also cut off the plug of the pump wire and stripped the wire and attached it to the electric box.
All you need to do is cut these wires and peel them off to the right distance in your device.
Depending on your fan and/or pump, you may need to check the polarity.
In other words, when turned on, you want to make sure that the fan and the pump turn in the right direction.
If not, change the wires!
Next, connect your tube to the pump.
Put the pump and tube in the bathtub.
I have four small suction cups at the bottom of my pump, so it will stay at the bottom of the tub.
Put the wire through the hole you drilled into the electric box and extend the water pipe from the back to the side of the top of the grating.
Next, connect all the wires in the electric box, as shown in the figure.
Finally, connect the pipe to the PVC pipe.
Position the pipe so that the drip hole is at the bottom and secure it in place with a cable tie or anything else.
In order to get a good position, you may need to drill a few small holes in the grille.
I only used three ties but you can use as many as you want.
That\'s all for everyone!
Fill the water and open it.
Note if any water is missing or dripping from the tub.
It should be easy to make any necessary adjustments/fixes. If too much (or too little)
The water drops down and off (or up)the pump (
If it\'s adjustable
Use a stronger or weaker pump (as needed)
, Or use pipes with smaller or larger holes (as needed).
You don\'t need too much dripping water, it shouldn\'t be a stream, it shouldn\'t be sprayed out!
What you want is a good steady drop.
If the drop of water at one end of the pipe is strong or weak, you can re-drill at the weak end with a slightly larger drill bit.
Changing the pad means twisting the grating from the back (
Only six screws in my case)
Of course, cut the new pads into a certain size.
This is the best way to remove the water and the fan is flat.
To empty and store the cooler for the winter, open the cylinder head and remove the fan (
Still connected to the cylinder head).
Then roll the tub into the bathroom and pour the water out of the bathroom tub.
I have always had a thermometer both indoors and outdoors.
If you haven\'t invested yet, you may want to make this small investment.
It will help you determine when to use the cooler.
In hot weather, I usually open one or two windows at night to help cool down (
I live in a safe community).
When I wake up, it\'s usually around 60 degrees outside and about 70 degrees inside.
I then open more windows and doors, open the cooler, and even open an extra fan or two to help breathe in the outside air of the cooler.
I added a cheap aquarium thermometer to the front mesh of the cooler fan to check the air temperature.
I found it pumping out 50-
There is some air in the morning.
Cool, West Wind and extra fans help the house enter 60 degrees.
When the temperature outside becomes hotter than the temperature inside, or when the temperature inside starts to rise, I close the door and most of the windows.
I\'m cooling the 1,000 square feet of the house. -
Not the whole place.
I open a small window at each end of the House and the cooler is located a few feet inside the West Window (
Windward face is where hot air usually enters during the day).
It seems to keep the interior of the house 10-
It\'s 15 degrees cooler than the outdoor air, so when it\'s 90 degrees outside, it\'s about 75 degrees inside.
$15 is good! ! !
You need to play around, where to best place the cooler, and the width of the opening window ---
Too much heat, the cooler can\'t keep up.
The hot air is too little and the cooler is not enough.
But, for most of my life, I have had almost the same problem! ! !
Of course, if no one is at home during the day, you need to think about how to deal with both issues.
First, safety;
Can you open the two windows safely? -even a crack --all day long?
Second, is your bathtub large enough to hold enough water for a whole day? .
Finally, I found two things that you might have to deal.
First of all, some miscellaneous things, such as the debris of the evaporation pad, will fall into the bathtub and pile up.
This can be a problem, especially when it gets into the pump.
It can block the flow of water and can also be stuck on the water pump blades. Not good.
One way to solve this problem is to open the trap door and look for \"things\" with a flash \".
I use fish nets. -
From my fish tank. -
Grab \"things \".
These things are cheap at the aquarium store or you can design another way.
Make sure you unplug the unit before you reach into the water! ! ! !
Second, at some point, you will find some slippery mucus/algae growing on the inside of the bathtub and on the pump Tube and on the electric line.
This won\'t happen overnight, but you may need to deal with it in some way before the summer is over.
There may be products outside that deal with mucus, but I don\'t know anything about them.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I thought of bleach. -
Like in the pool. -
But this house smells!
May smell-free bleach.
I will drop by to the local pool shop at the chance.
Feel free to add any suggestions, ideas for improvement or other related questions!